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Surfers Take On 70ft Giant Waves As Storm Hits California
The world’s top big wave surfers are flocking to California to take advantage of the largest storm swells to hit the US West Coast in years.
Surfers from Brazil, France, and Portugal have arrived at Mavericks, a popular wave south of San Francisco, to surf the massive water walls.
As heavier waves pass past, riders have ridden waves up to 70ft (21 meters).
After enormous rogue waves injured many, officials cautioned bystanders to keep away from the shore.
Chris Cuvelier, who administers the Maverick Surf Awards competition and can see the swells from his kitchen, told BBC News on Friday that “people have been getting on flights all over the world” this week to surf the famed site.
Surfers Take On Giant Waves As Storm Hits California
Pro surfers, “especially people that surf Mavericks, they’re big wave surfers and many of them are travelling around the globe to go catch big waves”, he said.
Famous pros such as Kai Lenny, Andrew Cotton, and Lucas Chumbo have all recently participated at Mavericks, with some competing for the Maverick Awards prize money.
They can enter the digital competition for a chance at the as-yet-unknown 2024 prize pool if they film the ride of their lives in this surge.
JoJo Roper, a pro surfer from San Diego, packed his car after Christmas when he noticed the “gigantic” swell forecast.
He claims it was the biggest since at least 2007, telling BBC News that “it’s been a long time since it’s been that kind of day.”
On Thursday, Mr Roper, 33, said he was one of the only California surfers out on the 60-70ft waves.
His pal flew from Hawaii to tow him into the waves on a jet ski.
“It’s nice to have it in our territory, and take advantage of some waves close to home rather than travelling to Portugal or where all these other guys come from to chase their waves,” he said in an interview with BBC News.
Surfers Take On Giant Waves As Storm Hits California
“They’re on their way to chase our waves.” It’s cool. Everything comes full circle.”
On Friday, he described Thursday as “certainly one of the best days in my lifetime.”
He shot into the barrel of a big collapsing wall of water on his third wave of the day.
“It was a privilege.” “And just getting barreled is a whole other realm of victory,” he laughs triumphantly.
“So I’m pretty happy about it.”
Forecasters have given additional warnings of impending peril after a rogue wave knocked pedestrians off their feet and inundated a Ventura hotel.
The National Weather Service (NWS) issued an advisory warning of “extremely dangerous conditions.”
“Powerful waves and life-threatening rip currents pose an exceptional risk of ocean drowning and damage to coastal structures.”
Rip currents, according to the NWS, provide an “increased risk of ocean drowning.”
More swells are predicted for Mavericks, which is located near the city of Half Moon Bay.
However, only the world’s top experts should contemplate diving into the ocean during this El Nio-driven weather phenomenon.
“Mavericks is kind of the biggest of the big here on the West Coast,” said Mr Cuvelier. “But I don’t think any beginner or even intermediate surfers should really be surfing anywhere in California (in these conditions).”
SOURCE – (BBC)
